Fantasy Playoff Weeks: Dance With Who Brought You

Saturday, December 11, 2010

Fantasy Playoff Weeks: Dance With Who Brought You

by NFL/Fantasy Football Analyst Russ Bliss

We're thru 13 weeks. At this point in many fantasy leagues, the fantasy playoffs are starting up. 13 weeks of grueling lineup decisions, trade considerations, free agent acquisitions, injuries, suspensions, etc all come down to the next 3 weeks. The most crucial 3 weeks in most fantasy leagues. Win and you advance to the next round. Lose and your season is done
So how should you approach your fantasy playoffs? Do you continue to take chances and play matchups? We saw week 13 that one of our usually reliable fantasy football stud RB's, Rashard Mendenhall had a tough matchup and did not put up very good fantasy points. How do you deal with your stud players who have the tougher matchups now that we're at this critical time?
To me, it's simple. I categorize my roster of players into groups. Each player is categorized as either a stud, reliable, inconsistent, or scrub. After I do this, it becomes a lot easier to choose a starting lineup during the fantasy playoffs.
I play my studs regardless of matchup. I am not going to sit Tom Brady to play Josh Freeman just because Brady has a really tough matchup and Freeman has a really good one. Every year, I will start my best players; the players who more weeks than not are responsible for me being in the playoffs, rather than roll the dice with an inferior player with a better matchup. Does this always work out? No. But I feel better knowing I've started my studs and lost, than I would feel if I sat my studs and lost because I second guessed their standings as being the best players on my team.
We've had 13 weeks to see who the stud players are. 13 weeks to realize that the stud QB's are Aaron Rodgers, Drew Brees, Mike Vick, Tom Brady, Phillip Rivers, and Peyton Manning. Week in and week out these QB's are producing a high amount of fantasy points more often than not. Are they huge every week? No. But I would start any of these QB's over any others the next 3 weeks, barring injury, regardless of matchup. Regardless of whom else I have on my team and what their matchup may be.
We've seen that the best fantasy RB's in 2010 have been Arian Foster, Adrian Peterson, Peyton Hillis, Michael Turner Maurice Jones-Drew, LeSean McCoy, and Rashard Mendenhall. If I have these players, they are not coming out of my starting lineup regardless of matchup. I don't care if LaGarrette Blount, Brandon Jackson, Marshawn Lynch or anyone else I may have has a great matchup. They are not going to start over my stud RB's.
So when do we consider the matchups?
Consider them when you don't have a stud to start at a position. Move onto your reliable players, and determine the best matchup from them. If you don't have enough reliable players to insert into your starting lineup, move onto the inconsistent players. Certainly at that point, you have found your best matchup and best player to insert into your lineup.
And remember, just like the immortals in Highlander, there can be only one. Only one who walks away with the fantasy championship in each league. And sometimes, no matter what you do, no matter if you make all the right lineup decisions, it's not going to be you. Winning in fantasy football is a combination of preparation and luck. By categorizing your players you are doing the best preparation you can do. But it's up to the players to go out and perform at a higher level than whoever your opponent has on his team.
Source:http://www.fantasyfootballstarters.com/fantasy-playoffs-starting-advice.jsp

Fundamental Horse Accessories

Thursday, December 9, 2010

Author Name: Anirban
There is a common saying - if you love someone, show it. Just feeding your horse well does not mean you care for him. If you really love your horse, then you must seek the comforts for him too; you need to buy correct horse accessories for him.

The pleasure of going for a horse ride enhances when you have caparisoned your horse with quality corrective pads and other horse accessories. Let's have a glance at a number of essential horse accessories.

Saddle: Saddle is in fact the first thing that comes into the mind of many when we talk about horse accessories. It is the supportive structure for a rider which is fastened to the horseback by a girth. Saddles today are no more simple pads; they come in a spectrum of styles. Besides being careful to the size of the saddle that fits both the horse and the rider, one should keep in mind the equestrianism discipline too.

Corrective pads: Also, known as saddle pad, corrective pad is under the saddle on a horseback. The role of corrective pad is to protect the horse's back, absorb sweat and mitigate the saddle. They are also called numnahs, corrective pads serve the purpose of saddle blankets, though in a better way. A saddle pad is normally thicker than the saddle blanket. It consists of the layers of felt, foam or other material crammed between a tough cover on the top and a soft cover on the inside edge that comes in direct contact with the horse. A quality corrective pad is necessary to keep your lovely horse away from the chronic backache.

Girth Sleeves: Girth sleeves are required to keep your horse relieved from the uneasiness that can be caused by fastening the girth. They are available in a wide variety ranging from woolen, animal print to quilt on outer and wool on inner edge etc. The girth sleeves prevent horse skin against rubbing enabling them to work for longer time at a stretch.

If you wish to get quality horse accessories at affordable prices, purchasing them through online merchants offering bespoke services is the best option.
About Author
The article is an effort of the webmaster at ( http://www.nuumed.com/ ) We specialize in manufacturing British made numnahs, saddlepads, corrective pads, seatsavers, dressage, Half numnahs and Horse accessories meeting to a wide range of specifications.

Article Source: http://www.1888articles.com/author-anirban-406.html

Freshwater Tropical Fish Wholesale Supplier - Aquarium Advice

Tuesday, December 7, 2010

Author: Tropical Fish Wholesale

East Coast Tranship makes the following information available to pet store trade and consumers to help you give your fish friends a better home to live! For more information, call us at (301) 782-1025 or visit the links at the bottom of this article.
East Coast Tranship, Inc. is a freshwater tropical fish wholesale supplier that sells to the pet store trade only. We are a direct importer which means you save 50 to 70% over wholesale prices.
Very small delicate fish get lost, or are often eaten by larger fish in a normal sized aquarium (30-125 gallons.) But, in a small 5-10 gallon tank, sitting on an office desk, there really are a large variety of small freshwater tropical fish and invertebrates that can be added to make a display that's every bit as interesting and aesthetic as a big tank.
Here are some interesting freshwater tropical fish wholesale additions for the smaller tanks. Most do well in a planted tank.
Fork Tail Rainbows - Popondichthys furcata (Indonesia code 4764) average 1"
Fork Tail Rainbow
The rainbowfish found in river systems east of the Great Dividing Range of Queensland Australia are schooling and do not do well or show off their best colors if kept singly. Your freshwater tropical fish wholesale tank should include at least six individuals from the species.
The tank can be well planted along the back and sides, but leave plenty of open area as these fish are lively swimmers and require lots of swimming room. Use drift wood and bog roots only sparingly as they tend to acidify the water. A good plant to use is the java moss as it is native to the region and can also serve as a spawning medium.
Cockatoo Dwarf Cichlid - Apistogramma cacatuoides (Indonesia code 4003) Average 1-1.25"
Cockatoo Dwarf Cichlid
Apistogramma cacatuoides is a species of South American cichlid fish usually known under the common name cockatoo dwarf cichlid. The cockatoo dwarf is one of the best suited cichlid species for the planted aquarium. As the male is highly territorial however, it should be kept in pairs, trios (1 male, 2 females) or harems (1 male with many females), and in the company of peaceful tank mates like tetras. Water conditions should be in the pH 6.0-pH 7.5 range.
Agassizi's dwarf cichlid - Apistogramma agassizii (Indonesia code 4688) Average 1-1.25"
Agassizi's Dwarf Cichlid
Apistogramma agassizii is the scientific name for the Agassizi's dwarf cichlid, a fish that occurs in many southern tributaries of the Amazon river. Male Agassizi's dwarf cichlids are territorial by nature. Just like all dwarf cichlids the Agassizi's dwarf cichlid requires weekly partial water changes in order to keep the nitrate levels as low as possible. The Agassizi's dwarf cichlid grows to 4 inches (10 cm.) in length. It prefers a hardness level of 50 - 10 m/gl and a pH of 6.0.
Apistogramma pandurini (Indonesia code 4240) Average 1-1.25"
Apistogramma pandurini
A freshwater fish from South America. It is a dwarf cichlid, closely related to Apistogramma nijsseni.
Apistogramma Panduro, are sometimes referred to as Apistogramma pandurini. The name is derived from the Peruvian fish exporters who first collected the fish. Their native Peruvian waters are soft and acid with a sandy substrate. pH in their native waters is usually below 6.0. They are not fussy eaters and will adapt to most high quality foods.
Blue Killifish - Aphyosemion gardneri (Indonesia code 4629) Average 1.25"
Blue Killifish
A killifish is any of various egg-laying cyprinodontiform fish. All in all there are some 1270 different species of killifish, the biggest family being Rivulidae, containing more than 320 species. Members of this order are notable for inhabiting harsh environments, such as saline or very warm waters, water of poor quality, or isolated situations where no other types of fish occur. They are typically omnivores, and often live near the surface, where the oxygen-rich water compensates for environmental disadvantages.
Clown Killifish - Epiplathys annulatus (Indonesia code 4186) Average 1.25"
Clown Killifish
The Clown killi or Banded panchax is a type of killifish, and is not related to a clownfish. It is a rather rare fish and is marked with brown and yellow with vivid blue and red.
Most Killifish are territorial to varying degrees. In the aquarium, territorial behavior is different for every grouping, and will even vary by individuals. In a large enough freshwater tropical fish wholesale aquarium, most species can live in groups as long as there are more than three males.
Pencilfish - Nannostomus beckfordi (Indonesia code 4663) Average 1 -1.25"
Pencilfish
Nannostomus thrive in home aquaria when provided with soft, moderately acidic water, low nitrate levels and temperatures in the range of 72 degrees F to 82 degrees F. The addition of aquatic plants, including floating varieties, is recommended. The latter will reduce the likelihood of the fish jumping, which is a common occurrence for some of the species, especially N. espei and N. unifasciatus. They should be kept in schools of at least six in a freshwater tropical fish wholesale tank.
If kept in a community aquarium, the best tank mates are other species of Nannostomus, small peaceful characins and corydoras. Aquaria with strong water current, large tank mates, or swift-moving species are contraindicated. If kept in a thickly planted single-species aquarium with the above water parameters, most species will spawn, eggs will not be eaten, and the fry will be found among the floating plants. Baby brine shrimp, live or frozen, and other small-sized foods are required for both fry and adults.
Nannostomus are also avid biofilm grazers and, for most of the species, algae is an under-reported staple of their diet. In most species the males will establish small territories and defend them. Their defensive actions are usually harmless but, in two species, N. mortenthaleri and N. trifasciatus, antagonistic behavior directed at conspecifics can have deleterious results if sufficient space and plant cover are not provided.
Once acclimated to the aquarium, and provided with conditions to their liking, Nannostomus are hardy and have a firm grasp on life, often living for five or more years.
Threadfin Rainbow - Iriatherina werneri (Indonesian code 4650) Average 1.25" - 1.5"
Threadfin Rainbow
The threadfin rainbowfish or featherfin rainbowfish: In aquaria they are usually peaceful, they live preferably in groups of six or more. Because of their long fins they should obviously be kept in a tank without fin-nippers. They breed best in tanks without other species.
Threadfin Rainbowfish do well in aquariums of 20 US gallons (76 L), however 30 US gallons (110 L) is preferred. They are best housed in a "species only" tank; meaning that the tank is reserved for the Threadfins alone. Because of their tiny mouths, they can be difficult to feed. They do well with live foods, such as baby brine shrimp, and the micrometre larval diets. They prefer water that is soft to moderately hard, slightly acidic (pH 6.0 - 7.0), and with a temperature of 23 - 29 degrees C (73 - 84 degrees F).
Marble Hatchet fish - Carnegiella strigata (Brazil Code 6117) Average 0.75 - 1"
Marble Hatchet fish
The Marbled Hatchet fish, is a small, freshwater ray-finned fish native to South America and is common in the aquarium industry. Like most Amazonian fish, the species prefers softer, acidic water. Hatchets usually occupy the top portion of the freshwater tropical fish wholesale tank and like many other aquarium species may be shy at feeding times just after they have been introduced. However, given some time and proper water conditions, they will be less hasty.
As with most Characins (see Characidae), they are omnivores and prefer a varied diet, including live or frozen food, and vegetables. However, they will not swim to the bottom to eat so all food must float. Hatchets have a tendency to be shy fish and are easily intimidated by larger or fast moving fish, so they are only appropriate for very peaceful communities or species tanks.
They will also be happier if they don't have to share the top portion of the tank with any other fish and if kept in schools of at least three. They like plants with long trailing leaves to hide under. It is absolutely necessary for tanks inhabited by these beautiful fish to have a tight lid, as they can and will jump when startled.
Cardinal Tetra - Paracheirodon axelrodi (Brazil Code 6102) Average 0.5" - 1"
Cardinal Tetra
The cardinal tetra, is a freshwater fish native to the upper Orinoco and Negro Rivers in South America. Given the origins of the cardinal tetra, namely blackwater rivers whose chemistry is characterized by an acidic pH, low mineral content and the presence of humic acids, the species is adaptable to a wide range of conditions in captivity, though deviation from the soft, acidic water chemistry of their native range will impact severely upon breeding and fecundity.
The preferred temperature range of the fish is 21 degrees C to 28 degrees C (70 degrees F to 82 degrees F). The water chemistry of the aquarium water should match that of the wild habitat - filtration of the aquarium water over peat is one means of achieving this.
Scarlet Gem Badis - (Singapore code 1863) Average 1"
Scarlet Gem Badis
The Badis is a small, predatory fish that feeds on tiny invertebrates. Males normally display stronger coloration and females may appear more rounded when gravid. Coloration is extremely variable and changes with mood, though typically the fins are blue and dark vertical bands are apparent on the flanks.
Galaxy Rasbora - Celestichthys Margaritatus (Singapore code 2153) Average 1"
Galaxy Rasbora - Danio
Danio are native to the fresh water rivers and streams of Southeast Asia, The Danio is an ideal species for any planted or community aquarium as they add color and will get along with other community species well. They are quite easy to care for as they will tolerate a variety of water temperatures and conditions, although they would prefer a water temperature around 78 degrees F with a slightly alkaline pH.
Danio are a small schooling species that should be kept in groups of at least 6 individuals with 8 or 10 individuals in the group being ideal. It is best to duplicate their natural environment in the freshwater tropical fish wholesale aquarium with an abundance of live plants and with some drift wood and rocks. In the wild this species lives in very calm water that is often spring fed or formed from overflows of other waterways, thus they should be kept in aquariums that do not have constant strong direct currents.
They live in shallow water in the wild that has strong direct sunlight, so they do very well in strongly lit planted aquariums, and will use heavily planted areas in the aquarium or driftwood and rocks to retreat to if they feel threatened.
The Celestial Pearl Danio is an omnivore that will eat virtually any standard topical fish foods available within the hobby. They will readily accept flaked foods, frozen preparations, vegetable or algae flakes and wafers along with freeze-dried bloodworms, tubifex worms and brine shrimp. Essentially they will eat the same foods that would be being fed to the bulk of tropical freshwater species found in a tropical community aquarium.
Harlequin Rasbora - heteromorpha (Singapore code 2159) Average 0.75"
Harlequin Rasbora
All of the Rasbora species are unaggressive, peaceful, and can be kept with fish of similar temperament. They are strong swimmers and in nature prefer to be in small schools. They like to stay in the upper areas of the freshwater tropical fish wholesale aquarium. Your tank should provide plenty of open space for swimming as well as some dense plantings to serve as shelter. The water temperature should be kept around 76 degrees F.
Rasboras prefer soft water and if possible you should use a peat filter bag in your filter, (Tetras will benefit also.) They will eat flake, frozen as well as live food.
Many species of Rasbora will breed without too much difficulty, spawning freely in soft, neutral or slightly acidic water. Unfortunately Rasbora Heteromorpha is not one of these. The water should be very soft with a hardness of 1.5 to 2.5 DH and a pH of around 6.0.
For information on ordering these freshwater tropical fish wholesale for your pet store, call East Coast Tranship, Inc. at 301-782-1025.

Article Source: http://www.articlesbase.com/hobbies-articles/freshwater-tropical-fish-wholesale-supplier-aquarium-advice-3174972.html

About the Author To see the pictures of these fish visit our blog http://tropical-fish-wholesale.com/blog - East Coast Tranship, Inc. is a Freshwater Tropical Fish Wholesale Supplier that sells to the pet store trade only. We are a direct importer which means you save 50 to 70% over wholesale prices. To ask questions or place orders call 301-782-1025

The Red Dress Lapel Pin Fights Women’s Heart Disease

Sunday, December 5, 2010


If you were asked to name the leading cause of death for women in the United States, could you do it? Breast cancer, right?

Wrong. Heart disease kills one in three U.S. women each year – about six times as many as breast cancer. The American Heart Association, in conjunction with other health organizations is trying to raise awareness of the risk of heart disease in women. One of the ways the AHA is trying to raise awareness is through the red dress lapel pins.

Although many people consider heart disease a “man’s disease,” it’s an equal opportunity killer. In 2006, heart disease killed 315,930 women in the United States – just about exactly half of the total number of heart-related deaths that year. The AHA created the Go Red for Women campaign featuring the red dress lapel pin to make people realize that heart disease is a serious threat to women.
Lapel pins have long been a way to show support for causes, including AIDS awareness, cancer research and support for those living with many chronic diseases. But the most common style, the ribbon-shaped lapel pin, has some drawbacks.

Ribbon lapel pins have been common for many years, usually with a specific color assigned to a specific illness or other cause. But with a limited color palette to choose from, it quickly becomes almost impossible for the casual observer to know what cause a particular ribbon lapel pin represents.

The red dress lapel pin, introduced in 2004, is meant to remind people that heart disease is not limited by gender, age or any other factor, and that women need to be conscious of their heart health. The simple red lapel pin is a low-key way to draw awareness to the cause, equally suited to an office or casual environment.

The red dress lapel pin, like the pink ribbon lapel pin that promotes breast cancer awareness, is a low-key way to get an instantly recognizable message to many people. Its distinctive dress silhouette is easily recognizable. Unlike most ribbon pins and other styles, it has only one known meaning. The unique dress shape, unexpected in a sea of ribbon lapel pins, might prompt people to ask what it’s about. That gives the wearer an opportunity to discuss the need for heart health in a way that the more commonly shaped ribbon lapel pins might not.

That’s not to say that other lapel pins can’t make the same point. Red ribbon lapel pins also have a history of representing heart disease awareness, just not necessarily specifically for women. While February is American Heart Month, a red lapel pin in either style can easily serve as an awareness reminder throughout the year.

Ribbon lapel pins have a distinguished history of representing disease awareness campaigns. The first ribbon lapel pins were red strips of actual ribbon in the now-familiar looped shape. They were created in the early 1990s to promote AIDS awareness, and made their first appearance at the 1991 Tony Awards. The red dress lapel pin is one of the few awareness lapel pins that break free of the customary ribbon shape.

Lapel Pin Superstore is the source for the finest quality custom lapel pins available at the lowest price possible. If you would like to know more, or want to order lapel pins, contact us toll free at 1-866-862-8842, or by email at sales@lapelpinsuperstore.com.

How To Choose The Best Hybrid Bike For You

Tuesday, November 30, 2010

By: Mary Stackhouse

If you are considering the purchase of a hybrid bike then it is highly important to know and understand something of the build and about the bike features. Even more so if you are a first-time buyer.

The hybrid bike is a mix of road bike and mountain bike. They tend to be nicely sturdy and strong enough to be ridden both on road and off. To get a further understanding of the bike though, we should look more in detail at some of the main elements, which are the wheels, gears, the frame and handlebars.

They are sturdy bikes and are built to be light enough to be ridden on hard surface, while at the same time strong enough to handle some light off road work too. For more understanding its best to look further at some of the details of the main parts.

Chances are good that the frame will be made from a light weight aluminum or steel. This is because of the durability and strength of those metals.

The main frame will have been made from either a lightweight steel or aluminum, which will provide strength and durability.

Gears

Handlebars

Handlebars

Wheels

Wheels

The wheels are what could be regarded as a good mix between mountain and road bike. The width is like the mountain bike - quite bulky - giving extra durability and stability to the ride. The tire pressure however is more like the road bike - much higher than the mountain bike, thus offering more road speed.

The wheel rims and the spokes are like those of the road bike - lighter, so it's not really possible to do too much off-road riding in rough conditions.

The hybrid bike then is a great choice for those cyclists who wish to keep to pathways and roads - the ideal choice for anyone to use to go to work, to school or for general exercise in the outdoors.

Before making a purchase, always research the brand and bike that you are interested in and look out for reviews that you can easily find online, so you can get a better understanding of what is available.

If you are unsure about something, then do contact the retailer about this for further information before making any purchase and they will be more than happy to help you
Source: PopularArticles.comTM / Sports / Cycling / http://www.PopularArticles.com/article165936.html

Trophies For Sports And Other Events

Sunday, November 28, 2010

Sports and other extra curricular activities try to
invigorate the inner feeling and other desires in any individual quite
considerably. Every individual or a team that tries to win an award or a
massive prize in any of the competitions both within the country and abroad
tend to receive substantial amount of reward in terms of cash as well as
momentous trophies if they happen to win any competition. Trophies can be
acquired by any victorious individual or a team in any of the championships or
competitions. Custom engraving can
be done on the trophy as per the requirement and desire of the competition’s
organizer and manager. Precise and exclusive engraving on any trophy tends to
augment the overall beauty and effectiveness of the object quite significantly
by leaps and bounds. However, one aspect that must be considered while
engraving the trophy is that the planned engraving should not be over intricate
or jazzy. It tends to reduce the general effectiveness and decency of the
award.
Plaques awards can be given to any winning person or a team at any time of
the year. These types of awards can be obtained in diverse shapes, pattern and
colors as well. Trophies and several other plaques are presented to individuals
and teams for their massive achievement and significant glory that they managed
to accomplish in such an intense and tough competition. New York City
may be considered to be the hub of producing exclusive and extravagant trophies
and other awards as per the obligation and craving of the sports and extra
curricular organizers. The overall exposure towards sports and other
recreational activities is immense in this city and hence you will be able to
see various stunning trophies and prizes being produced for several minor and
major championships and competitions.
Trophies and
awards
can be produced in breathe taking
patterns, designs and outlines that can truly captivate the imagination of any
individual immediately. Presenting trophies and other prizes to persons is a
sign of extreme affection, appreciation and love bestowed on them. This
positive feeling will only motivate the athletes, sportspersons and teams to
perform even better and may bring massive laurels for their country and city
both domestically and globally. The idea is to motivate and inspire the person
to excel in his future endeavors so that he may be able to carve a strong name
for himself internationally.
The general feeling and passion gets augmented on the
acquisition of any well deserved trophy and prize in any of the major and minor
competition. In order to obtain the finest, attractive and the most durable
trophy with the entire essential and artistic engravings one must select the
most efficient engraving company that
can offer the whole package with cost effective rates and assured guaranty. It
may be very easy to select the most productive and effective company that could
be dealing with trophies, prizes and engravings if you tend to follow the basic
guidelines and procedures diligently as per your own obligation and current
financial resources.
For
more information on Engraving visit Sports Trophies

Walking an Ultra Marathon

Saturday, November 27, 2010

Looking back I wonder why I wanted to walk an ultra marathon (as for running I decided to literally learn to walk first rather than run). After all, what did I get out of it besides blisters, a few tears and legs that if they could, would have beaten the hell out of me and left me for dead because I certainly did torture them.

Well, why should you care? Why indeed. If the thought of walking the 46 mile long march has pricked your ears then read on. If the thought of walking 46 miles in under 20 hours brings you out in a cold sweat or causes expletives to burst from you that would terrify the old lady in the corner. Read on anyway.

The walk I did is basically a huge circle beginning from RAF Wyton. The terrain is typical of East Anglia. It’s extremely flat. So those who enjoy walking in mountains will find this walk very boring. There's a challenge in that I think! Still, if you get the right company on the walk, the lack of interesting terrain isn't a problem.

The key to this is somewhat obvious. Be prepared! Still, there are idiots out there who cannot get this right. I’m one of them. My training consisted of running 3 miles a few times a week at a heart rate of around 161. This did not in anyway prepare me for the extreme fatigue my legs were under by the end. To tell you the truth, I got lucky! Learn from my mistake!
You need to build leg strength for this because leg strength is key. My lungs didn't have a problem at all on the walk. My legs just got stiffer and heavier as the miles clocked up and my feet, well, hello blisters! You can do it by simply walking long distances and building up your strength until you are able to cover the 46 miles in one go or you can add supplementary exercises on top of this like squats, one legged squats and general leg exercises. If you find that supplementary exercises make you more fatigued and hinder recovery then don't bother with them. Just focus on building your walking distance.

You will of course carry water with you on training walks. On the pathfinder, there are checkpoints where you can refill, negating the need to carry loads of water! It goes without saying to stay hydrated, as this affects your performance directly. If you want to do an organised walk check the walk you want to do to see if they operate a check point system. They should do for safety reasons.

Navigation may or may not be required depending on where you’re doing it and your level of support. If it is required then simply practice on the training walks or find someone to do the walk with you who can navigate. Mind you, this person must finish the walk. It's amusing but still annoying to find you don't know where you are or where you’re going! Your best bet is to get someone to teach you because you can get hands on experience rather than just reading and practicing. If this isn't possible then the book or internet is the way to go. A favourite of mine is Map and compass: The art of navigation by Pete Hawkins.

You should definitely vary where you train because not only is walking the same route over and over extremely boring; it's of no use navigationally. You need to challenge yourself by navigating in new terrain.

So far then, you know you should begin by building leg strength through long distance walking and possibly using supplementary exercises. You also need to practice navigation on your training walks.

Building up your distance depends entirely upon you. That is how you cope with the training. Some people are like machines, feel no pain and are rarely sore. Others find they can hardly walk the next morning, me included. If you begin by walking say 10 miles and find this is too much. Cut the distance to say 5 miles. If that’s comfortable try 7 next time you go and build up slowly. For example you might go 10, 5, 7, 8, 10, 12,13,14,12,16 and so on. If you can make bigger jumps in distance by all means do so. You may well be able to build up more than if you were running because walking has much less impact upon the body. If you can only train on weekends you could do a really challenging walk each Saturday or split two hard walks between Saturday and Sunday. You can also make changes to your lifestyle. Don't use elevators, don't use remotes e.t.c. Perhaps get yourself a bike and cycle to work. Everything counts.

So, when I do this walk (46 miles) again my training will look something like this: I will start at 10 because I can handle this well. Obviously you should start at a good level for you.

Week Sat Sun Total
1 10 10 20
2 12 12 24
3 15 15 30
4 18 18 36
5 15 15 30
6 20 20 40
7 23 20 43
8 24 20 44
9 27 20 47
10 20 15 35
11 30 15 45
12 33 15 47
13 36 15 51
14 39 15 54
15 20 15 35
16 42 15 57
17 46 (the walk)

Boots are very important. If you want you can do the walk in trainers that’s entirely up to you. Though if you come across a water logged field and can't go around, like we did, you'll regret it. Wet feet also mean more blisters! Which boots you buy depends on which are comfortable for you. Try a wide variety at the shops. I'm not inclined to buy from the internet because I don’t know how they feel. Once you've got a comfortable pair you need to break them in. A variety of tricks are prophesised about breaking in boots so have a look on the internet, try them and see if they work. Obviously the one way that does work is simple. Walk in them! That’s what I did. Of course you’re going to get blisters. When I first brought my boots I couldn't run in them the blisters were so bad! Overtime though this isn't as much of a problem. I got more blisters when I first got my boots going for 6 miles than I did walking 46 now. So persist and you will see results.

Make sure your boots fit properly of course. Get you feet measured in the shop or anywhere you can before you buy. If you don't you will suffer from black toenails and they will fall off. Another mistake I made and therefore lost allot of toenails, not fun! (They do grow back so don't worry, just keep them clean if this happens to you).

As for clothing, don't wear jeans, you can do the walk naked but never wear jeans! Their useless to walk in. Check the weather and dress accordingly. I did the walk in summer so I took lightweight trousers, a light shirt, a jumper and waterproofs which where a godsend because the weather was not nice! Watch out for stinging nettles and the like if you’re wearing shorts!

If you get the opportunity on the walk you should check you feet regularly. Prevention is better than cure so if you feel like you may be getting a blister, get it sorted immediately. A blister beginning at 20 miles is a nightmare at 25! A method of preventing blisters I use is to strap my feet. In doing this I got no blisters on my ankles at all. Only on the soles at the front where I didn't strap. Simply take some tape, I used zinc oxide tape, and put it over where you think you will or where you do get blisters and this should help. I also wore bandages over my feet, which made quite a difference! I wore the bandages you would use as a knee support, not something I usually do but then I don't usually walk 46 miles in one go!

Mental strength is extremely important. There are moments when you want to quit; it’s inevitable when you’re tired. How you train for this I don't know. I think the trick is to maintain a positive outlook when your doing the walk as often as you can, laugh allot, joke at anything even if it's not really that funny. Just don't let that sinking or miserable feeling get the best of you. Accomplishing the walk is a great feat and the pain is temporary, that’s what I kept in mind when I did it. How you motivate yourself of course may be entirely different but no matter who you are, as long as you can put on foot in front of the other, you can keep going and each step is one step closer to the end!

Don't try this if you’re injured! I’ve done myself in a few times because of too much pride! If you get an injury during the walk, how you react depends upon the injury and where you are. If you’re right near the end e.g. a mile or so and the injury isn't bad, crack on, go for it. If you get injured near the start, pull out. You have no idea how much worse its going to get and you can seriously injure yourself. Any serious injury warrants pulling out immediately for obvious reasons. Of course how you react is down to your judgments.

What you eat on the walk and in training is very important. The pathfinder provided energy bars and drinks on the walk. Take advantage as long as they don't upset you! I ate boil in a bag rations cold because cooking wasted time and they are light to carry. Not brilliant but I’m not fussy about warm food. I’m not a nutritionist; I can't give you a ratio of carbs to protein or anything like that. I just ate food that wasn't bad for me, no cheeseburgers! My aim was to get loads of calories down my neck to keep the energy up. I also took nuts and seeds as well for essential fats as energy also come from these. I did avoid foods that are likely to give you that sugar high and then the low, not good when you’re already tired! By all means take boiled sweets or chewing gum if you really want something sweet. Trail mix is also good.

The walk then can be broke down as follows: You should begin by building leg strength through long distance walking and possibly using supplementary exercises. You also need to practice navigation on your training walks. Build your distance slowly but challenge yourself now and again. Get the right size boots by getting you feet measured and looking at a wide variety of boot to get the most comfortable. Strap up you feet and wear a bandage to prevent blisters. Wear your boots in! Maintain a positive outlook, eat well and don't do it injured.

As for what I got out of this. Yes it was painful, I got blisters and I did shed some tears over the last few miles but I also got one hell of a sense of achievement. I look back on it and feel quite proud that I pushed through the pain barrier and didn't give in. Knowing I can do that is pretty good in other aspects of my life.

Hopefully I haven't missed anything and this has helped you to get more enjoyment out of walking an Ultra Marathon trouble free. Good luck! And may you get the same feeling of achievement I did!

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About the Author

Living in England. Enjoys keeping fit and is currently training for an Ironman triathlon